Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
